FAQ
I just got my bulb. How do I use it?
You'll need a fixture and ballast for our MH bulb. Read our Equipment page for recommendations. We recommend hanging the light using ratchet straps or chains. Make sure the fixture is hanging strong and will not fall. We also recommend growing using the tips on our Advice page to optimize yield.
My book/mentor/grow store/article says MH is only for veg?
It's a common misconception that MH is only used for veg, and that's one of the reasons I started this company! Metal Halides have a full sunlike spectrum that can bring out the best quality in your plants during the flowering period! Read more on the various pages on our website if you want more details on our spectrum and proper use for best results. Most of how we are taught to grow is now based on the marketing of brands who sell the equipment. Companies have not been properly marketing Metal Halide for flower (even though the best growers have been using it for decades and still do) and so there is not much broad-scale public awareness. We seek to change that and spread the awareness with our brand!
Can a 1000w bulb be used in a tent in a home grow?
Absolutely! I've been using 1000w MH bulbs in 5x5 tents (standard height) for many years now with great results. Some growers will even use it in a 4x4 tent! Others will stretch it to light an entire 4x8 tent. There are many possibilities. Remember to exhaust your air from the top of the tent because heat rises, and you'll be good to go! You can also connect your exhaust duct to an air cooled hood, which will pull hot air directly out from the light. Heat is not as problematic as many growers anticipate it to be! Because it's possible to train plants and flip them to flower on command to reach our desired plant height, it's also easy to grow with bulbs even without high ceilings.
Will you make lower wattages?
Yes! We have had so much interest from smaller home growers, that we now offer 400w and 600w bulbs, too. They will have the same qualities of our full size, 1000w bulb, just smaller. The 600w bulb can flower a 4x4ft space and veg up to a 6x6ft space. Our new 400w bulb is perfect for flowering a 3x3 or 2x4 tent, and can be used to veg up to 5x5ft. Our 1000w is designed to flower a 5x5ft (or 4x4ft too) space with superior light penetration and can veg a 7x7 or larger. A bonus about our 600w bulb is that it also produces 40% less heat, and can be positioned much closer to the plants, great for smaller home grows. Depending on your reflector, the 600w goes about 14-18 inches from canopy, and the 1000w goes about 20-30 inches from canopy.
Can this bulb be dimmed?
No. Even if your ballast has the option, no metal halide bulb (from any brand) should be dimmed, ever! It can be potentially dangerous, and also will not ignite the internal elements properly, altering the spectrum and losing the benefits of its unique chemistry. Please use the appropriate wattage for your size space, instead of dimming. Make sure to match your ballast wattage and lamp wattage, do not use a dimming function to reach the bulb's wattage. A 600w lamp should be used only with a 600w ballast, not with a 1000w ballast dimmed to 600w, for example. If your light is too intense, you can raise it further from the plants, instead of dimming.
The bulb looks used?
This is normal! Each bulb is tested upon production, so you know you are receiving a working bulb. Our bulbs are sold brand new, tested once.
The bulb has broken glass inside?
Your bulb was damaged during shipping or handling. This is rare and we do our best to package them securely. Every bulb is inspected and tested before packaging! If you see any signs of damage such as cracked or broken glass, do NOT use the bulb! Safety is important. Contact the shop you purchased from for a replacement.
Will you make Double Ended (DE) bulbs?
Our single ended bulbs already outperform the leading double ended metal halides in both brightness and spectral quality. We have completed development on our new Double Ended bulb for use with Open Rated Fixtures, and it will be released fall 2024. Our DE bulb comes at the request of many commercial and home growers who already own DE fixtures. Keep in mind however, single ended technology is favorable for MH bulb chemistry, lasting longer and shining 5% brighter. We will offer single ended and double ended to meet the needs of various growers. You will enjoy our exact same light spectrum in both formats. Our DE bulbs will be available in 1000w only (and can be placed closer to the canopy than DE HPS lamps too!)
What about multi light layouts?
Using multiple lights to cover a larger space, our bulbs have incredible crossover and uniformity when spaced properly! Our 1000w bulbs should be spaced 5 feet apart (bulb to bulb distance), and our 600w bulbs should be spaced 4 feet apart. Our 400w bulbs should be spaced 3 feet apart. The space in between lamps will be approximately just as bright as the center under the bulb, plus angular light from each side penetrates deeper into the canopy!
Can I run vertical bulb orientation?
No, our bulb is only for use in horizontal position. The majority of lamp hoods/reflectors available use the horizontal bulb orientation.
How far to keep the lamp?
Watch this video by Hortilux showing how 2 different reflectors can drastically change the amount of light at a given distance. For this reason, we recommend measuring the light intensity with a PAR Meter to position your lamp the proper distance, it can be different in every situation. A very rough estimate we could give would be 20-36 inches away for 1000w and 12-20 inches away for 600w. 400w can be placed even closer. Also, place shorter plants in the center and taller plants around the edges to capture angular light and increase yields. Different reflectors will allow for closer or farther positioning! Air cooling can also allow for much closer positioning, too.
What should my PAR Meter say?
When holding your sensor above your plants and pointing toward the light bulb, you will get a reading of PPFD which is telling you how much light is hitting that spot. In veg, I recommend rooting clones at a distance of 75-100ppfd, vegging small clones starting around 125 ppfd, starting seeds around 200-300ppfd, vegging plants larger from 300-450ppfd. As plants go into flower, I like to start them around 400-500ppfd, and allow them to grow into around 750ppfd range. Some strains can be pushed toward 900 or 1000 ppfd (or even more) in flower, while others want less light and may flower best with just 500ppfd. Each strain has its own unique needs, so watch the plants and adjust as necessary, if signs of too much light are present.
Which plants are best for MH in flower?
Many plants do best under MH! We also found that many of my strains that I previously bred and selected under LED, HPS, and CMH, do even better when brought under MH! It can really bring out new and exciting nuances from your favorite indoor hybrids. MH can bring out the best in so many plants, especially those derived from outdoor settings like landrace, landrace hybrids, outdoor lines, and anything with unique expressions. Many sativa lovers are extremely satisfied with MH capabilities too! When selecting phenotypes from seed, you will be selecting the plant that you like best under whichever lighting style you are growing it with. So, keep in mind that when selecting under MH, you will be able to find the highest yielding phenotypes for the MH light!
I heard HPS yields better for flower?
Our ultra bright MH can produce the same great yields as HPS!
Before HPS, growers were using Metal Halides for flowering indoors. Once HPS lamps arrived on the scene, there was a heavy push for marketing the ultra bright and efficient orange hps lamp. Growers were told the orange spectrum helps flowering. HPS is widely known as the bulb to use for flowering. They were heavily marketed for decades and are capable of producing massive yields, as well as some great quality. However, many of the old growers saw a big decrease in the quality they are used to when they switched to HPS, so they rejected them and stuck with the MH. Other growers saw an increase in yield with HPS due to their immense brightness (growers were not measuring PAR so they could not tune their exact distance to precise light levels at canopy).
Some growers would combine HPS and MH, noting that they got increased quality from MH and yield from HPS. Others stayed solely with MH for its superior quality. When used precisely correctly, a MH bulb can deliver the same light intensity as hps and produce massive yields. Some plants yield higher under MH, and some yield higher under HPS. When using a PAR Meter, it's easy to achieve similar yields with either style of light in most cases! Many MH growers have put their bulbs too far away, and then came to the incorrect conclusion that the yields are too low. When positioned prceisely using a PAR Meter, massive yields are achieved under MH!
HPS spectrum is extremely unnatural, with an abundance of orange light and a lack of the rest of the spectrum. This can negatively impact the potential of the plants’ genetic expression, meaning the herb comes out a bit more generic or limited in expression. For example, some strains will express higher Myrcene levels but lower levels of other terpenes. When you use a full spectrum MH lamp, you can produce a wider range of terpenes in many cases. Some growers will mix HPS and MH. Our lab results show MH producing different terpenes and additional cannabinoids that were not present under HPS or LED.
What about light uniformity/center hot spot?
When you see a bulb par map and have lower uniformity in the corners, all you need to do is understand that as you move upward in those corners/edges the light intensity will increase. Growing tall plants around the edges, small plants in the center, and your corner/edge plants will angle their leaves just like plants do outside to face the sun. If you measure the par with your meter at an angle toward the light, as the leaf orients itself similarly, you can measure the max amount of light it's actually receiving, is much higher than if you hold the meter vertically as normal. And these higher or taller plants around the edges are yielding huge by using this angular light!
What about CMH?
Ceramic Metal Halide (CMH, aka LEC) and Metal Halide (MH) are two different technologies which are often confused with each other. There are some key differences:
CMH can not be manufactured in a truly sunlike color temperature. The technology doesn’t allow enough of the neccessary elements in a safe manner, so it is limited to a warmer light spectrum, either 3100k or 4200k, both are more red than sunlight. In addition, CMH is a low frequency bulb, operating under 200Hz. CMH bulbs are low wattage, and I recommend them for the vegetative phase where plants don’t need high intensity light yet, or for small grows 3x3 or 2x4 in size, which require smaller light.
We focus on Metal Halide (MH), a high frequency and high power lamp that has a tuneable spectrum capable of truly sunlike color temperatures. I find this to produce the highest yield and quality in the flower phase, especially when used precisely with a PAR meter.
MH is typically a high frequency light source, operating at 100,000 Hz. The two technologies (CMH vs MH) are powered by different ballasts and use different fixtures/connectors as well. MH bulbs are bigger, brighter, stronger, than their CMH counterparts, and produce much larger yields in the flower phase.
(Note: yes, there are certain low frequency ballasts that can operate MH lamps too, but we do not recommend it for best results.)
Why not LED?
LEDs have come a long way and I have extensive experience with them, first achieving over 2 g/watt under cob leds in 2017 when many growers still said LED's can't be used for growing on a high level. I grew some amazing crops under all the best LEDs around (and as you can tell, I'm a huge light nerd!) However, I discovered some problems over time which brought me back to Metal Halides! With LED's, you have a flicker rate which many people can be sensitive to, potentially causing health issues and discomfort. You also have an unnatural spectral curve which changes the expression of the plants (many growers and patients prefer the medicine grown under MH bulbs) and although LEDs can definitely do an amazing job, they are limiting and changing the expressions of the plants, while potentially harming human health and the environment. If you save a few watts on power with an LED light, you often have to use more power elsewhere to compensate, for example running additional heat or dehumidification. Plants are harder to keep healthy under LEDs for many growers, and have a different rate of metabolism for nutrients, often showing calcium and magnesium deficiencies, especially if the grow is under 78 degrees. With our bulb, you can grow cooler, or hotter, without issue!
A note on LED's toxicity:
While LED's do not contain Mercury, they instead use Arsenic, Lead, and more elements, potentially more toxic! In addition, their production places a large strain on the environment, bringing into question their labelling as an actual clean energy source. A lot of marketing and lobbying dollars go into the push of LEDs worldwide. The LED industry is valued at 78.9 Billion Dollars in 2024. While they can have their benefits in some scenarios, they are not as perfect and healthy as we are LED to believe! LEDs are also harming wildlife at a greater rate than previous lighting technologies.
LEDs seem to have a harsher negative effect on human circadian rhythms and health compared to other light sources (suspected to be due to blue-heavy, unnatural spectral ratios, missing parts of the spectrum, especially lack of beneficial infrared wavelengths (which are present in all other lighting types.) Interesting to note, red, far red, and infrared light therapy is now being used to help a lot of health problems.) LEDs are shown to interfere with normal dopamine and melatonin production.
If you are interested in LED's health harms, due to unnatural spectrum and lack of important infrared energy, check out this YouTube channel as well for more resources.
What about LED's flicker rate? Do MH bulbs flicker?
Quick answer: no, MH bulbs do not flicker like LEDs :)
LEDs operate by flickering off and on 100-120x per second, a rate that most people can not visually perceive. A small percentage of people are sensitive to this and it appears to them like a strobe light (including myself, especially when tired.) When an LED is dimmed, it increases the amount of time in the off-position of it's flicker every second, thus appearing dimmer! This means the flicker is exaggerated when an LED is dimmed. Various studies link this LED flickering to a number of potential health problems, which are being investigated deeply.
Luckily, MH bulb technology works differently! There is no flicker problem with a MH bulb because it is operated by a high frequency ballast, around 100,000hz. Also, because the bulb works by heating up gasses, causing them to glow, there is no way for it to flicker fully off and on like an LED. Metal Halide technology can have 0% flicker rate at 100,000hz! The closest thing a bulb can do to flickering, is to slightly pulse by a few % rather than the full on/off flickering range of an LED. This pulsing is imperceivable, and all incandescent lightbulbs in your house do this, too.
There are certain low frequency, square wave ballasts available on the market that can power MH lamps, but we do not recommend using these because of their flicker rate (bulb can be seen pulsing using a slow motion camera when operated on a low frequency ballast.) You will get the best results using any high frequency, sine wave ballast, such as the ones we recommend: Quantum ii Ballast. High Frequency with no flicker means more light delivered to your plant over time, as there are no flicker-off-periods happening.
What about Mercury inside of bulbs?
MH bulbs contain a super tiny amount of mercury inside (about the size of a pinhead, 1/50th the amount that a typical thermometer contains), so please recycle your bulb when you are finished with it, rather than throwing it away. Many hardware stores will accept bulbs for recycling absolutely free. This process recaptures the mercury so it can be used again instead of deposited into the environment! The entire Metal Halide bulb can be recycled so that none of its components harm the planet!
How safe is the bulb?
When used correctly with the proper precautions, our bulb is as safe as any other electronics! However, when used improperly, it can pose a threat. Please read carefully:
Our bulb is safety rated for Enclosed Fixtures. The extra layer of glass in an enclosed fixture (such as an air cooled fixture) is protective in the unlikely event of a lamp bursting. If a lamp explodes, the hot shards of glass would be contained inside the enclosed fixture, instead of spread to your environment. An enclosed lamp is less likely to explode as well, because it is protected from accidental liquid contact. Never foliar spray near an open bulb! Enclosed hoods should be air cooled to prevent heat buildup near the bulb.
Many growers can be seen using bulbs without an enclosed fixture, just please note that this is not officially advised for safety reasons. For example, the popular Hortilux Blue MH 1000w is also rated for Enclosed Fixture Only.
While the bulb is on, it is hot and can cause burns, so do not touch. Do not look at the bulb during operation, as it is so bright that it can damage your eyes, just like looking at the sun would. Especially don't look toward it during startup where UV is higher momentarily. Use glasses and skin protection if you'll be near it for a prolonged period of time. Never get any oils or sprays on the bulb, including the oils from your fingers. Use a glove when handling and installing the bulb to avoid getting fingerprints/oils on it, clean off with a dry cloth if needed before powering on. Do not perform foliar sprays during lights on, and do not get sprays on the bulb. We recommend against the use of humidifiers near a bulb (plants can thrive under a wider range of humidity under our bulb anyways, and even single-digit low humidity is not a problem!) Oils or liquids on the bulb can heat up and make a bulb burst, so just keep it clean. Keep flammable materials away from the bulb. Using an enclosed fixture with air cooling ensures that the bulb is protected from sources of liquid. Do not use past rated lifespan, as lamp rupture becomes more possible.
When do I replace my bulb?
Our bulbs are rated for 12,000 hours of use! (3 years of 11/13.) Over time, the bulb will slowly degrade, as any artificial light source does. Before 12,000 hours, the bulb will become slightly weaker over time. Many MH growers replace their bulbs on a schedule between every 6 to 12 months. Using a par meter, you can monitor your light intensity levels and move the lamp slightly closer to the canopy as needed. We do not want to encourage unnecessary waste or replacement of bulbs before it is needed. Use your bulb as long as you can, and replace it only when you need to. A bulb should not be used past its rated lifespan for safety reasons. A bulb becomes more likely to burn out or burst as it approaches the end of it's rated lifespan. We recommend writing down the start date for each lamp or setting reminders to re-lamp after a set amount of time. If your bulb is no longer working, it is time for a new one. A fresh bulb is always brightest, but a used bulb may still have a whole lot of life and potential! It's going to depend on so many factors, even temperature, humidity, and certainly the amount of hours you run your light for, not just how many months you used it.
An interesting note is that many LED manufacturers claim a 10-20 year lifespan, but it’s not translating into real world scenarios. As it turns out, the LEDs lose brightness in a similar manner to bulbs over time, even if they don't burn out for a longer time. While they can be used for a longer period of time than a bulb, they can still degrade to 95-90% within 6,000 hours, where an MH may degrade to 90% in 6,000 hours and to 80% in 12,000 hours, making their degradation more comparable than many people think. Large commercial grows have been known to throw out and replace commercial LED fixtures by the hundreds after 2-6 years of use due to observed light degradation. At that price point, neither solution is more cost effective in many cases. At this time, no artificial light source is perfect. They all degrade over time and need to be replaced eventually. Luckily our bulbs are 100% recyclable. It’s an imperfect scenario to have to replace lights, and we are doing the best we can, especially with offering an affordable pricepoint. We encourage using natural sunlight or mixed greenhouses if you are in an area where you can do so!
Installation tips?
Put on a clean glove, and carefully tighten the bulb securely in it's socket. A tight fit is required for perfect operation of the bulb. Sometimes you may need to tighten the bulb more than you thought, but be careful not to overtighten. Also, it is best for the electricity if you isolate the power cables to and from your ballast, as in don't have them tangled with other wires. Also, if you need to wrap up a cable that is too long, do it in long/wide loops if possible, do not do tight bends or folds. These can all have an impact. It is normal for it to flicker and change colors during the startup phase of the lamp which lasts for a few minutes as the lamp warms up to full brightness.
To protect the lifespan of the bulb, do not cycle power on/off multiple times per day. It is best to run the bulb for many hours at a time, because the rapid heating and cooling of turning it off and on many times can damage the bulb.
My bulb won't turn back on after disconnecting or a power outage?
If your bulb turns off due to a power outage, it will not turn back on until it has cooled down (10-20 minutes or so) and then should turn on automatically. Don't keep attempting to unplug and plug it back in, just be patient. A few minutes of darkness won't destroy your plants if it happens. Your ballast should automatically sense the bulb temperature and attempt to re-ignite the bulb when it is ready to do so.
How to set up air cooled hoods?
It's easy, simply attach your exhaust duct to either side of the lamp hood. Multiple lamps can be connected in sequence, too. Exhausted air can be sent outside, filtered through a carbon filter, etc. Using an air cooled hood helps remove up to 50% of the heat, a big difference for your grow!
Watch this video on setting up air cooled reflectors. Please note for small tent grows you can also pull air out through the duct and place your carbon filter at the end of the sequence outside your tent to remove air and odors. (order: lamp hood - duct - fan (blowing that way ->) - duct - filter)
Do you have a warranty?
We do not offer a warranty, as we are a very small company offering a delicate and limited product. We aim to keep our prices as low as possible. This brand is an attempt to make a MH bulb that is better and brighter than our previous favorite one which used to be sold for over $240! So at $69 for our bulb, it would be cheaper for you to purchase a backup bulb in case of unexpected lamp failure, than to purchase our bulb at a higher price so that we could afford to offer a warranty. At the moment we are a small start-up brand, not a large corporation, we have no outside investors and are doing everything as best we can, fueled by the passion for the plant and the benefits of this special technology.
Do you have a PAR Chart?
Yes. Our bulbs are extremely bright and do very well on a PAR Map. While we aren't huge fans of PAR Charts because of the various limitations and biases involved, we've produced one anyways due to popular demand. If you've read the various sections on our website you should understand why PAR Charts are somewhat misleading and do not really represent the full potential of any HID bulb. However, if you're still into PAR Charts, you may find ours impressive for a MH bulb! Remember, PAR numbers change drastically as you adjust distance to the light, so simply put the light closer to the plants to get the higher numbers you desire in any spot. The PAR from our bulb is competitive with the output of an HPS lamp, making us one of the brightest MH bulbs on the market! PAR numbers will vary based on reflector type.
